Cavalloni a Nazarè


002479280Al largo di Nazarè, località costiera del Portogallo, il surfista Garret McNamara ha cavalcato un’onda gigantesca. E’ stata stimata in oltre 100 piedi, pari a 30 metri. Se sarà confermata l’altezza avrà battuto il suo stesso record registrato l’anno scorso sul Guiness dei primati per un’onda di 27 metri.

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Garrett McNamara surfs ‘highest ever’ wave off Portugal – BBC News 30/01/2013

[…] Experts will now have to certify the new record.

The giant wave formed above an underwater canyon famous for being the world’s biggest wave generator.

Some reports say the wave may have been as high as 100ft (30m), although this is yet to be confirmed.

“You are just going so fast,” McNamara told ABC television. “It’s really, really similar to snowboarding on giant mountains.

“And you’re just chattering, flying down this bumpy, bumpy mountain. Your brain is getting rattled. Your whole body is getting rattled.”

He said he was relieved to have avoided a rocky section of the coast. […]

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Swell waves

Swell waves can travel thousands of miles across the Atlantic from as far west as the Caribbean.

Canyon

The Nazare Canyon, which is an underwater valley the size of the Grand Canyon, helps concentrate the waves’ energy.

Shore

As the water becomes more shallow, the waves slow down while maintaining their energy, so they become bigger. The gradient of the shoreline at the head of the canyon is ideal for producing plunging breakers which surfers love.

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